-GoBengals- Posted June 19, 2014 Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 So i finally got all of the can lights in, and connected the wires to the panel /w the breakers, etc... outlets work, awesome! Office room lights work, awesome! had a mishap using two GFCI outlets on the same breaker, fixed, bathroom lights work, AWESOME! Theater room lights work now, AWESOME! so then there is the 3 way switch for the hallway lights. as it stands, power goes into first hallway switch, 3 way wire goes to 2nd hallway switch, and then to the 3 hallway lights. Switch 1 -> Switch 2 -> Lights if switch 2 is on, switch one can turn them off and on, if switch 2 is off, switch 1 does nothing. i have flip flopped the wires a few times in switch 2, way one listed above, way two, nothing worked, way 3, same as above.... so i dont know is way 4 in the second switch or if i am missing something in the first switch.... but power is making it across as i have it now... but only the 2nd switch works fully... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-GoBengals- Posted June 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 This is the description of my setup... im trying to figure out these wire arrangements... The Basic 3-way Switch Arrangement Normally encountered 3-way systems (3-way "circuits," as some call them) all share one scheme-theme: --- S === S --- O where the "S"s are the switches, the "O" is the light, and the lines shown are wires carrying constant (the line on the left) or switchable (the rest) hotness. The neutrals, not being involved in the switching operation, are not shown yet, since they can come into the picture in a variety of ways. Nor are boxes or cables containing the wires shown yet; nor any additional lights switched with the one shown; nor any 4-way switches, which would interrupt the path of the two traveler wires at any point.Above are two 3 way wiring diagrams of this scheme as you might see it in the flesh, complete with neutrals, boxes, and cables. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-GoBengals- Posted June 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 GOT IT! the diagram and the switch itself has the screw points in different spots. paying attention to the black screws was the "i am retarded" moment that made me figure it out... basically hot line goes into black screw, lights come off of black screw, and make a "loop" out of the other black wire and red wire of the 3 way... BOOM! like magic.. all lights and outlets are functional! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
|Elflocko| Posted June 19, 2014 Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 I'm glad you figured it out, as had I offered advice and you acted upon it you most likely would have burnt your house down... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
|Montana Bengal| Posted June 19, 2014 Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 Shocked Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-GoBengals- Posted June 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 I'm glad you figured it out, as had I offered advice and you acted upon it you most likely would have burnt your house down... me not wiring it right in the first place was a big enough ego blow, then not being able to figure it out for 5-6 tries was even worse... i was determined to fix it... Shocked pun acknowledged and enjoyed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
|Bunghole| Posted June 19, 2014 Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 I have some experience with electrical issues but I was pretty stumped by your inquiry. Glad you got it figured out without getting a touch of 110V love. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CincyInDC Posted June 19, 2014 Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 120V. just sayin' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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