Car audio

[Notorious]

Hey guys! Anyone real big into car audio?

[url="http://www.crutchfield.com/S-yvoH9AbZaCZ/cgi-bin/ProdComp.asp?g=120&c=3&s=0&cc=01&pt2=0&compareitems=218RSD6001&compareitems=575P8004&compareitems=108R1211A&compareitems=206ZX6504&compareitems=206ZX7501&compareitems=575P6001BD&x=31&y=3"]http://www.crutchfield.com/S-yvoH9AbZaCZ/c...mp;x=31&y=3[/url]

^^ Those are the ones I was going to choose from (feel free to suggest a brand if not listed). Will be buying it from ebay, no way i'm paying retail for audio sheet. I'm leaning towards the Infinity amp.

Basically I just need it to power one sub.. (maybe my component speakers also, dunno yet about that) ( [url="http://cgi.ebay.com/KICKER-VS12L7-12-SOLO-BARIC-L7-SUB-BOX-ENCLOSURE-4-ohm_W0QQitemZ170029402365QQihZ007QQcategoryZ32823QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem"]http://cgi.ebay.com/KICKER-VS12L7-12-SOLO-...1QQcmdZViewItem[/url] ) Kicker solo baric L7 12" ( 750/1500 Watts (Peak/RMS) ).

and what about capacitors, would you add one? I've heard both sides on these..

Anyone running any kick ass glass breaking systems?

[Guest BengalsOwn]

From that selection, I would go with the infinity.

I wouldn't waste your money on a capacitor.

[whodey319]

[quote name='Notorious' post='342586' date='Sep 17 2006, 07:00 PM']Hey guys! Anyone real big into car audio?

[url="http://www.crutchfield.com/S-yvoH9AbZaCZ/cgi-bin/ProdComp.asp?g=120&c=3&s=0&cc=01&pt2=0&compareitems=218RSD6001&compareitems=575P8004&compareitems=108R1211A&compareitems=206ZX6504&compareitems=206ZX7501&compareitems=575P6001BD&x=31&y=3"]http://www.crutchfield.com/S-yvoH9AbZaCZ/c...mp;x=31&y=3[/url]

^^ Those are the ones I was going to choose from (feel free to suggest a brand if not listed). Will be buying it from ebay, no way i'm paying retail for audio sheet. I'm leaning towards the Infinity amp.

Basically I just need it to power one sub.. (maybe my component speakers also, dunno yet about that) ( [url="http://cgi.ebay.com/KICKER-VS12L7-12-SOLO-BARIC-L7-SUB-BOX-ENCLOSURE-4-ohm_W0QQitemZ170029402365QQihZ007QQcategoryZ32823QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem"]http://cgi.ebay.com/KICKER-VS12L7-12-SOLO-...1QQcmdZViewItem[/url] ) Kicker solo baric L7 12" ( 750/1500 Watts (Peak/RMS) ).

and what about capacitors, would you add one? I've heard both sides on these..

Anyone running any kick ass glass breaking systems? [/quote]
well if your just powering a sub then get either the infinity or kicker ZX750.1 because those 2 are just for powering subs. If your going to do other speakers than run from those 2 cause it will suck. If you are going to hook up more speakers then get the Punch P8004

[ValleyBengal]

I can sell you amps that I myself have never been able to use. I work for Harman Kardon (Infinity, JBL, Revel, Crown) so I get stuff all the time. I can sell to you for a good price. Let me know what you're looking for (Channels, Power, Purpose) and I will look through my stash.

[CatScratchFever]

Whatever you do, please just turn the damn thing down when you pull up next to me at a stoplight.

You don't want to get into a sound war with me. I'll blast Whitesnake until your ears bleed...

hey, man... if I gotta listen to your shit, you gotta listen to mine.

[NASTYNATI]

personally id look into Hifonics or Directed amps. also, crutchfield is waaaaaaay overpriced... check out this place[url="http://www.ikesound.com"]CLICK HERE[/url] Hifonics make the best amplifiers on the market. they are extremely underrated (peak power numbers) and are virtually indestructible. if you have the cash go that route, if not id go with Directed... they make great amps (again underrated) and are very reasonable (price).

[|Bunghole|]

Infinity makes some decent speakers, although I can't vouch for their amps. Hifonics are decent for cheap amps. I've had great luck with Kicker amps and JL Audio stuff. The newer amplifiers with the Class D technology are great because they draw a lot less amps off your alternator, which can have a wide variety of effects on your car, like dimming your headlights on bass hits to affecting your rpm's to causing the alternator belt to shred.
I always ran with a 1 farad capacitor, I found it really helped on bass peaks, since I didn't want to go the second battery route.
JL Audio makes some of the best subs and amps around, but they aren't cheap.
And Crutchfield is WAY overpriced....you'll have better luck just about ANYWHERE else. Good shitter reading material though!

[Rumble In the Jungle]

i got bose in my car, factory shit. and im very satisfied with that for sure! back back in day i remember having a cerwin vega 15" and also i had a couple of 12" kickers. the kickers are sick!

[NASTYNATI]

[quote name='Bunghole' post='344009' date='Sep 19 2006, 07:31 AM']Infinity makes some decent speakers, although I can't vouch for their amps. [b]Hifonics are decent for cheap amps[/b]. I've had great luck with Kicker amps and JL Audio stuff. The newer amplifiers with the Class D technology are great because they draw a lot less amps off your alternator, which can have a wide variety of effects on your car, like dimming your headlights on bass hits to affecting your rpm's to causing the alternator belt to shred.
I always ran with a 1 farad capacitor, I found it really helped on bass peaks, since I didn't want to go the second battery route.
JL Audio makes some of the best subs and amps around, but they aren't cheap.
And Crutchfield is WAY overpriced....you'll have better luck just about ANYWHERE else. Good shitter reading material though![/quote]


cheap?

depends on which one and what power you want, they range in price from $400 (xx chaos) to $4000 (xx maxximus)

[Notorious]

Thanks for the input!

I definitely will not be buying from crutchfield or in some store.. only ebay/online. Mark up is a bitch on car audio. Pretty sure i'll go with the Infinity amp, If I need an amp for my component set/speakers i'll add a small amp.

Going to get my ride dynamatted first, then add an alarm, more so for the remote start feature.. gotta love a warm car in the winter and vice versa. Viper has a new remote start/alarm out that has a mile range!!

[quote]Whatever you do, please just turn the damn thing down when you pull up next to me at a stoplight.[/quote]

Hah.. that reminds me, in my old car.. Of all people, a city transit bus pulled up along side of me and she opened her doors and was trying to get me to turn my music down. I turned it up and yelled at her.. "what, I can't hear you".. Only time I turn my stuff down usually is if I see cops in hearing distance (was in a friends car that got pulled over because of his tunes) and if I see kids in cars near by w/ windows down, cause I wouldn't want my kids (if i had nay) listening to what I do.

[|Bengal Migration|]

As an ex-Crutchfield employee/installer... Go with the kicker amp if you can find one at the right price. Serious ballz for driving that solobaric. I'm also a huge fan of soundstream. If you go with a quality amp, you shouldn't need a cap. If you get an cheap-ass amp, a cap will do wonders, but I'd invest more $$ in the amp if it was me. Properly installed, they will liast a lifetime if you buy a quallity one. My amps have been around for quite a while, but they're still pumpin (or at least they were when i still had a ride. sold my car when i moved overseas. but the amp/stereo are in storage for when i get home...)

[soundstreamer]

First of all stay away from the Kicker subs. They can get very loud but do not replicate sound very good at all. To get them to sound decent they require a pretty large box and the prefab box like the one from crutchfield is usually tuned at a fairly high frequency to make it loud but will most likely sound muddy.

Any idea how much you want to spend for your sub? Do you want it to just be loud or do you want to have some good sound quality with it? I can give you a few selections depending on what you want.

For amps as someone else said Kicker makes some good amps if you can find a good price. The big thing with amps is find one that does the power at the impedance you need depending on your subwoofer. For the most part an amp is an amp just stay away from flee market brands. If installed correctly(including the head unit, subs, and main speakers) it should sound good.

There are also some some very good non mainstream companies out there that are mainly internet only based but offer extremely good products. Like TC Designs, Soundsplinter, Stereo Integrity, FI Audio, Elemental Designs, and Incriminator Audio.

My system is not ground pounding loud but I can still do about 135-140 decibels and sounds good.

Kenwood Excelon X659
Cadence US55 main speakers(could use an upgrade)
Stereo Integrity 12"Magnum sub(an amazing sub)
Lanzar Optidrive 200.2 powers my fronts
Avionixx 800.2 powers my sub

[Notorious]

[quote name='soundstreamer' post='359865' date='Oct 6 2006, 08:00 PM']First of all stay away from the Kicker subs. They can get very loud but do not replicate sound very good at all. To get them to sound decent they require a pretty large box and the prefab box like the one from crutchfield is usually tuned at a fairly high frequency to make it loud but will most likely sound muddy.

Any idea how much you want to spend for your sub? Do you want it to just be loud or do you want to have some good sound quality with it? I can give you a few selections depending on what you want.[/quote]

Thanks for the input.. Ideally I was looking to spend around $300ish for the sub (eBay prices, not paying crazy retail prices). Just want 1 sub though, want to save room in the cargo area. No cu$tom setups, just looking for a enclosure combo. What subs do you like? I'd like deep bone bruising bass

Was looking at some rockford's, but some friends setups that have kicker subs sound nice and they give them good praise. Almost have my mind made up for this sub...

[url="http://cgi.ebay.com/KICKER-VS12L7-12-SOLO-BARIC-L7-SUB-BOX-ENCLOSURE-4-ohm_W0QQitemZ170035963460QQihZ007QQcategoryZ32823QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem"]http://cgi.ebay.com/KICKER-VS12L7-12-SOLO-...1QQcmdZViewItem[/url]

and this amp.. (thnx WhoDeyUK for the amp info)

[url="http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=019&item=290033500301&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1"]http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...A%3AIT&rd=1[/url]

Will go w/ Infinity for the component set. ( [url="http://cgi.ebay.com/INFINITY-PERFECT-6-1-COMPONENT-SPEAKERS-SYSTEM-6-1-2_W0QQitemZ300034639983QQihZ020QQcategoryZ32819QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem"]http://cgi.ebay.com/INFINITY-PERFECT-6-1-C...1QQcmdZViewItem[/url] )

Just had some dynamat installed, will have remote start/alarm within a few weeks, then the good stuff goes in!

[|Bengal Migration|]

[quote name='Notorious' post='359882' date='Oct 7 2006, 02:03 AM']Thanks for the input.. Ideally I was looking to spend around $300ish for the sub (eBay prices, not paying crazy retail prices). Just want 1 sub though, want to save room in the cargo area. No cu$tom setups, just looking for a enclosure combo. What subs do you like? I'd like deep bone bruising bass

Was looking at some rockford's, but some friends setups that have kicker subs sound nice and they give them good praise. Almost have my mind made up for this sub...

[url="http://cgi.ebay.com/KICKER-VS12L7-12-SOLO-BARIC-L7-SUB-BOX-ENCLOSURE-4-ohm_W0QQitemZ170035963460QQihZ007QQcategoryZ32823QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem"]http://cgi.ebay.com/KICKER-VS12L7-12-SOLO-...1QQcmdZViewItem[/url]

and this amp.. (thnx WhoDeyUK for the amp info)

[url="http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=019&item=290033500301&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1"]http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...A%3AIT&rd=1[/url]

Will go w/ Infinity for the component set. ( [url="http://cgi.ebay.com/INFINITY-PERFECT-6-1-COMPONENT-SPEAKERS-SYSTEM-6-1-2_W0QQitemZ300034639983QQihZ020QQcategoryZ32819QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem"]http://cgi.ebay.com/INFINITY-PERFECT-6-1-C...1QQcmdZViewItem[/url] )

Just had some dynamat installed, will have remote start/alarm within a few weeks, then the good stuff goes in! [/quote]

If you landed that amp, you can drive any sub on the planet. You're gonna need at least 4 ga wire to set it up. Yummy.

As for soundstreamers sub advice, I've found solobarics to be nice subs, but they require some serious ballz to drive, which is one problem you will not have with that kicker amp. It's been a while since I've been in the business, but back in the day, high end polk audio subs were nice, as were the soundstream subs. You could hook up just about anything to that amp and have your balls blown off with the right enclosure to match the sub. I am a true believer in spending more $$ on the amp than the sub. Unless of course you can spend like mad on both.

[|Bunghole|]

I would seriously consider getting two 10's in a sealed box if you really want bone-crushing bass while trying to maximize space. One 12 isn't going to do it unless you spend far more than you sound like you want to. You could also go the 15" or 18" route, but I've found that anything over a 15" doesn't replicate sound in a punchy way as it takes so much more energy to get those big speaker cones moving, and to energize their voice coils.
I would also stay away from dual voice coil subs....I just hate them.
Get a good amp, bridge it into mono, and feed that power into a decent pair of subs and you won't be disappointed.
And always get a sealed enclosure, as they provide tighter response (but require more power). Ported boxes are way too boomy and farty sounding.

[|Bengal Migration|]

[quote name='Bunghole' post='361196' date='Oct 10 2006, 01:19 AM']And always get a sealed enclosure, as they provide tighter response (but require more power). Ported boxes are way too boomy and farty sounding.[/quote]
This is gospel.

[soundstreamer]

There is nothing wrong with using a ported box. If designed properly they are capable of replicating sound just as well as a sealed box. The reason why most everyone says not to go ported is because most of the prefab ported boxes that you buy are not designed specificaly for the sub you have. Usually they are tuned at to high of a frequency which causes the boomy muddy sounding bass. I usually use sealed boxes but the reason for that is they require smaller boxes so I have more trunk space.

Dont worry about what size sub to buy. Another common myth of car audio is that anything over a 12" sub doesnt sound good. If you play a 50hz tone it is still the same frequency no matter what size sub. Once again it all goes back to your subs enclosure to how it will sound.

There is nothing wrong with going with dual voice coil subs other than they can be a little more complicated to wire. They do give you extra flexibilty of what impedance you want your amp to see so they can work with many different amps.

Here is a good sub that is cheap but can get loud. Only problem is with only one sub you would only get 500 watts from that Kicker amp(which is a hell of a great amp).
[url="http://www.low-hz.com/commerce/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21_25&products_id=31"]http://www.low-hz.com/commerce/catalog/pro...;products_id=31[/url]

I dont know if you like refurbished things but Ikesound has a great deal on a 5 channel amp that can power your whole system. If you order from them make sure to call to make certain they still have them in stock.

[url="http://www.ikesound.com/product-product_id/2666"]http://www.ikesound.com/product-product_id/2666[/url]

[|Bengal Migration|]

The thing about ported boxes is this: The port is there to make up for something that is lacking. Usually, it is there to make a given box seem larger in an effort to save space. Ported boxes are also used to create a lower frequency that would not be able to be reproduced by that speaker otherwise. Bose and Yamaha home subs are famous for this, getting increased bass from a smaller driver. The problem with a ported box is in the tuning. Unless the box is professinally designed and installed, there will always be a boomy range where the bass gets terribly muddled. Even a well designed ported enclosure falls prey to this somewhat.

A sealed box = no compromise. It generally means a larger enclosure, though solobarics are specifically designed to be used in smaller sealed enclosures. The only drawback is that you need massive amounts of power to drive the speaker, which you'll have with that Kicker sub amp.

As for speaker size, the qualilty of the amp is a major factor here as well. The larger the speaker, the more effort it effectively takes for the amp to properly control the speaker to ensure accurate sound. Sure, larger speakers move more air, and therefore are louder, and more capable of reaching lower frequencies in theory, but unless you keep them under control, they will both sound muddled, and be less accurate. A buddy of mine back in high school had a system with 2 Lanzar 15's in a ported box and a 300w amp, while I had 2 10's in a sealed box and a 140w amp. His system was surely louder, but mine could hit notes in the 20-30 hz range that he could not even touch. And oh boy did it used to piss him off. This was partly due to the fact that I had a sealed box, and the partly due to the fact that my amp was of higher quality, even though it was rated at less power.

Bottom line, if you get the amp/sub combo you are looking at, it should be both loud and accurate, even with a single 10" speaker. A 12" should get you some lower bass, and be a bit ouder, but even a 10" with that setup should be awesome. Wish I was there to hear it...

[soundstreamer]

Ported boxes in a car audio environment are not made to make up for something that is lacking. This is somewhat true in home audio where large ported boxes are employed because of large rooms they are used in. In car audio the small amount of airspace to pressurize is smaller and with the weird reflections that you get from cars you automatically get a large cabin gain of sometimes 3 decibels. The ported box when designed correctly in a car tuned to say around 32hz will give you exponentialy larger output than a sealed box. The sealed will still most likely play notes a little lower than a correctly low tuned ported but not by much.

For the most part sealed boxes take up much less space than a ported box. The old round Solobarics(which sounded much better than the new) did require smaller boxes at the time than most any other sub. Anymore most subs other than some lines from companies call for less cubic feet per sub than Kicker. I do agree that a sealed box takes a good bit more power to compare to a ported box that is why I have around 1200 watts on tap if I want to give it to my sub in a sealed box.

WhodeyUk, your story reminds me when I was in high school. I ran 2 Rockord Fosgate Series1 10's in a "leaky" sealed box with about 200 watts. My boy had 2 12" Pyles in an extremely to small of a sealed box with the same power and wondered why I was still louder than him. But then we all were just blown away from our other friend that had only a measly 20 15" old school Kicker Competitions and 2 Hifonics Zeus amps putting out about 1200 watts. Of course this was in 1990 which was just amazing.

I will say for certain his box at the time was tuned to probably around 45 hz. I dont know how old you are but in high school for me that seemed like the normal frequency ported boxes were.

Notorius best of luck to you with your choice! I am very happy you dynamatted your car. That will keep more of your music inside and less chance of pissing people outside off which gives car audio a bad name. Just keep your windows up and music low in resenditial areas then crank it if you feel away from public.