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2003 Nissan Sentra car issue/Check Engine light/Wont start.


GoBengals

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Hate to post so terribly off topic but a remotely urgent problem has come up.

wife has a 2003 Nissan Sentra GXE. Her car has been a little iffy in starting for a while, if all radio, air, etc are turned off it starts normally, but if they are onn it NEVER starts the first time, but starts second time you turn it over easily.

THEN, she came to my work to grab some lunch, parked, left the car on, i got in, she put it in reverse, backed up about 3 feet and it stalled on her. i assumed at that point she hi the gas after it stalled and she flooded it.. i took her home and the next day it started with no problems.

she has since then drove it to and from work without problems at all, then she just went to take my son to eat and it wont start in the parking lot.

the check engine like would come on everytime when it wouldnt start the first time, but NEVER when it DID start the first time you turn it over..

and of course with it not starting the chek engine light is on again..

i prefer to fix the issue myself, but cant find much on what it could be. and dont REALLY wanna tow it to a repair shop and pay a lot for repairs..

any help/suggestions?


for common questions ive been getting past few days:

[list]
[*]its due for spark plugs, but unlikely ALL went out, if one were bad it would start still just be rough running, etc.
[*]shes not out of gas or even close
[*]battery is fine, it turns over completely, all electronics work fine.
[*]oil isnt low, all fluid look good.
[/list]

any help is greatly appreciated..
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if the check engine light is on, i would try to get it to autozone and have them hook up the code reader or you can buy one (about $100 or so). that will give you an idea of where the problem is. while your there, pick up a maintenance manual for that vehicle.
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Something you can check that won't cost you anything: Nissan's have a history of having carbon buildup on a air regulator on top of the engine. Two bolts hold it down. One hose is connected to it. Undo the bolts, take it off, scrap off the black carbon inside. Air then can freely get into the engine as needed.

If you can't get it clean enough, because the build up has gotten too hard, they aren't too expensive to replace.

But if you get a computer diagnosis, it should tell you what the problem is.
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[quote name='GoBengals' post='755855' date='Mar 13 2009, 04:50 PM']Hate to post so terribly off topic but a remotely urgent problem has come up.

wife has a 2003 Nissan Sentra GXE. Her car has been a little iffy in starting for a while, if all radio, air, etc are turned off it starts normally, but if they are onn it NEVER starts the first time, but starts second time you turn it over easily.

THEN, she came to my work to grab some lunch, parked, left the car on, i got in, she put it in reverse, backed up about 3 feet and it stalled on her. i assumed at that point she hi the gas after it stalled and she flooded it.. i took her home and the next day it started with no problems.

she has since then drove it to and from work without problems at all, then she just went to take my son to eat and it wont start in the parking lot.

the check engine like would come on everytime when it wouldnt start the first time, but NEVER when it DID start the first time you turn it over..

and of course with it not starting the chek engine light is on again..

i prefer to fix the issue myself, but cant find much on what it could be. and dont REALLY wanna tow it to a repair shop and pay a lot for repairs..

any help/suggestions?


for common questions ive been getting past few days:

[list]
[*]its due for spark plugs, but unlikely ALL went out, if one were bad it would start still just be rough running, etc.
[*]shes not out of gas or even close
[*]battery is fine, it turns over completely, all electronics work fine.
[*]oil isnt low, all fluid look good.
[/list]

any help is greatly appreciated..[/quote]


go, once that check engine light comes on, that code will be stored in the car's computer module...even iif it disappears on the dash readout. the only way of wiping it out (the code) is to disconnect the battery. so find someone who can read codes for you, or take it to auto zone and get it diagnosed. mind you, that code could apply to several different possibilites, or a single one...it depends ofn how the readout is set up and what the problem is. that'll get you started. if you can get me that information, i can get with me son and get you a little more research from there and maybe we can break it down. kid's a whiz.

you have my e-mail address, use it if you wish.
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What Cougar is referring to is called the IAC, Idle Air Control. Some manufacturers have different names for it but any competent parts guy will know what your talking about. If it's bad it will usually start if you apply light throttle then it will stall once you let it idle again. They usually do not activate the check engine light though. Cleaning it, if possible is a good temporary fix. Sometimes they last forever after cleaning, sometimes just a short while and since they are relatively cheap replacing it is recommended.

Another good place to start is the crank position sensor. It will set a code and gives the exact symptoms you mentioned. Usually intermittent starts then one day nothing. Most vehicles its easy to replace yourself. 20 bucks for a cheapy Haynes manual is worth it but getting a factory manual will give you diagnostic steps and much more detail.

A bad cell in your battery is a possibility as well but not likely given the symptoms. In the old days the car started or it didn't. Now days alternators put out less and most cars use battery voltage when the engine is at low rpm's or at a high load. the alternator just charges the battery when it can, We used to swap batteries with cars running, no way now days. You get all kinds of goofy electrical issues when a cell is dead. my wifes neon will loose it's gauges, speedo and odometer when the battery is going bad. Seems like a major issue to someone unknowing.

IMHO probably a crank sensor, may be a cam sensor but I would start with crank sensor.
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[quote name='msharp16' post='755858' date='Mar 13 2009, 05:06 PM']if the check engine light is on, i would try to get it to autozone and have them hook up the code reader or you can buy one (about $100 or so). that will give you an idea of where the problem is. while your there, pick up a maintenance manual for that vehicle.[/quote]


yea this would be my initial thought. They can tell you exactly what triggered the light to turn on.
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[quote name='msharp16' post='755858' date='Mar 13 2009, 04:06 PM']if the check engine light is on, i would try to get it to autozone and have them hook up the code reader or you can buy one (about $100 or so). that will give you an idea of where the problem is. while your there, pick up a maintenance manual for that vehicle.[/quote]

i just tried, it stalled while i was driving it, now its stalled in a wal mart parking lot afer some friends came to my help. so i may go buy a reader from autozone..

[quote name='Rumble In the Jungle' post='755861' date='Mar 13 2009, 04:16 PM']who do you think you are posting car problems in Bengals forum, the owner of the site or something ? :mellow:[/quote]

B)
[quote name='CougarQuest' post='755865' date='Mar 13 2009, 04:23 PM']Something you can check that won't cost you anything: Nissan's have a history of having carbon buildup on a air regulator on top of the engine. Two bolts hold it down. One hose is connected to it. Undo the bolts, take it off, scrap off the black carbon inside. Air then can freely get into the engine as needed.

If you can't get it clean enough, because the build up has gotten too hard, they aren't too expensive to replace.

But if you get a computer diagnosis, it should tell you what the problem is.[/quote]

thanks, i will check that i read about this at nissanhelp.com certainly a possibility..

[quote name='cp2024' post='755867' date='Mar 13 2009, 04:29 PM']Still could be a bad cell in the battery[/quote]

would that cause it to stall? i stalled just now after i got it to start again.

[quote name='bengaled' post='755869' date='Mar 13 2009, 04:38 PM']go, once that check engine light comes on, that code will be stored in the car's computer module...even iif it disappears on the dash readout. the only way of wiping it out (the code) is to disconnect the battery. so find someone who can read codes for you, or take it to auto zone and get it diagnosed. mind you, that code could apply to several different possibilites, or a single one...it depends ofn how the readout is set up and what the problem is. that'll get you started. if you can get me that information, i can get with me son and get you a little more research from there and maybe we can break it down. kid's a whiz.

you have my e-mail address, use it if you wish.[/quote]


many thanks, my pops is headed over, we are going to trouble shoot and see whats going on if possible, i will report back if we get more info!

[quote name='Dodgems' post='755872' date='Mar 13 2009, 04:53 PM']What Cougar is referring to is called the IAC, Idle Air Control. Some manufacturers have different names for it but any competent parts guy will know what your talking about. If it's bad it will usually start if you apply light throttle then it will stall once you let it idle again. They usually do not activate the check engine light though. Cleaning it, if possible is a good temporary fix. Sometimes they last forever after cleaning, sometimes just a short while and since they are relatively cheap replacing it is recommended.

Another good place to start is the crank position sensor. It will set a code and gives the exact symptoms you mentioned. Usually intermittent starts then one day nothing. Most vehicles its easy to replace yourself. 20 bucks for a cheapy Haynes manual is worth it but getting a factory manual will give you diagnostic steps and much more detail.

A bad cell in your battery is a possibility as well but not likely given the symptoms. In the old days the car started or it didn't. Now days alternators put out less and most cars use battery voltage when the engine is at low rpm's or at a high load. the alternator just charges the battery when it can, We used to swap batteries with cars running, no way now days. You get all kinds of goofy electrical issues when a cell is dead. my wifes neon will loose it's gauges, speedo and odometer when the battery is going bad. Seems like a major issue to someone unknowing.

IMHO probably a crank sensor, may be a cam sensor but I would start with crank sensor.[/quote]

thanks!, i will check that as well. i have the manual for it i bought online somewhere... just need to find it.

[quote name='scharm' post='755873' date='Mar 13 2009, 05:07 PM']Is there gas in it?[/quote]

ha, im not retarded and i also mentioned it DOES have gas in the first post. :D

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Go it sounds like a voltage problem if it is ok when all the elect items is off I would look at the alt and the starter and the battery. As far as stalling low voltage can reek havoc on the computer...since it controls all engine functions the iac motor will just draw in and let the idle flatline.....and stall. Go ahead and have autozone scan it for free....I have dudes come in all the time with their codes.....get the code and call nissan at the automall....pm me if you have questions. ;)

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[quote name='GoBengals' post='755918' date='Mar 13 2009, 09:19 PM']Crankshaft position sensor!!!

i KNEW it.. :mellow:

barrowed an OBD reader from autozone ($150 deposit)

got the code, it was in there like 5 times.

couldnt find the part anywhere.. and dealer was closed..

tomorrow we look again![/quote]
sounds about right, the way it was acting. i didn't want to falsely diagnose it on you. i've seen people blow a load of money that way ...fixing /replacing parts that don't need replaced.

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[quote name='oldschooler' post='755931' date='Mar 13 2009, 09:59 PM']Sell that Rice Burner and Buy American !

WAKE UP AMERICUH !!!!


This is Earl Pitts, American.

Pitts off.[/quote]
All cars have their problems......even hi dollar rides. My ram pu has 133,00 miles and is still going strong. My wife's Miata still has the original battery and is a 2002....my vette is 40 yrs old and kicks ass. :P

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[quote name='STRAYCAT' post='755942' date='Mar 13 2009, 10:13 PM']All cars have their problems......even hi dollar rides. My ram pu has 133,00 miles and is still going strong. My wife's Miata still has the original battery and is a 2002....my vette is 40 yrs old and kicks ass. :P[/quote]

Sure all car have their problems. But people keep buying imports and wonder why our economy stinks. We don't make much in this country anymore. When we do folks buy Japanese instead while all the profits go overseas .

Buy American or bye bye jobs !

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[quote name='Dodgems' post='755926' date='Mar 13 2009, 08:56 PM']Glad it's diagnosed. Also glad I had it right. Nice to know us older folks can still keep up with all the changes :). My first car was held together with duck tape and bailing wire. Now days that shit don't cut it though lol.[/quote]

yes, you nailed it.. i didnt even realize, since when i read your post i had no idea what a crank sensor was.. :D

[quote name='oldschooler' post='755931' date='Mar 13 2009, 08:59 PM']Sell that Rice Burner and Buy American !

WAKE UP AMERICUH !!!!


This is Earl Pitts, American.

Pitts off.[/quote]

ha, i think the moral of the story is not to go cheap when buying a rice burner... my honda has 175k miles on it and grand total had the exhaust rust out an O2 sensor need replaced, and all 3 of my dads hondas worked FOREVER and their acura of course.. i cant imagine i will buy ANYTHING but a honda or toyota from now on.. this nissan makes me want to shoot myself.

[quote name='STRAYCAT' post='755942' date='Mar 13 2009, 09:13 PM']All cars have their problems......even hi dollar rides. My ram pu has 133,00 miles and is still going strong. My wife's Miata still has the original battery and is a 2002....my vette is 40 yrs old and kicks ass. :P[/quote]

its amazing car differences in durability....

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[quote name='GoBengals' post='755975' date='Mar 13 2009, 11:27 PM']yes, you nailed it.. i didnt even realize, since when i read your post i had no idea what a crank sensor was.. :D



ha, i think the moral of the story is not to go cheap when buying a rice burner... my honda has 175k miles on it and grand total had the exhaust rust out an O2 sensor need replaced, and all 3 of my dads hondas worked FOREVER and their acura of course.. i cant imagine i will buy ANYTHING but a honda or toyota from now on.. this nissan makes me want to shoot myself.



its amazing car differences in durability....[/quote]

My Chrysler Concorde has 140,000 I've changed the oil regular and put plugs and brake pads on it. My buddies have bought Japanese cars and they aren't more reliable. Maybe in the 80's but not today, that is a myth.

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