-GoBengals- Posted June 29, 2013 Report Share Posted June 29, 2013 Exactly. 1. Sticker 2. Trade In 3. Financing 4. Extras Just be prepared to walk away... **EDIT** Oh, and never give an answer to their question "How much do you want to pay per month?". You answer that question, and they've got you hooked. i said "nothing" to the how muchi want to pay per month.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-GoBengals- Posted June 29, 2013 Report Share Posted June 29, 2013 Ummm... not sure how you can say that... in year 1 the vehicle depriciates between 15-18% from new car value. And, since the dealer either gave trade value on the car or bought at auction there is more room for negotiation... in trade in value maybe, go look at cars.com, a 2012 accord EXL v6 is $26,999, and a new one is $27,995 like you said they have a LOT more wiggle room in negotiating price, but i find negotiating a new car easier, i know, in the end, they are going to make $500-1,000 on the car and it has no problems or unknowns about it like the used car.... savings doesnt seem worth it unless youre going to flip it for another one in 4 years... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
|Elflocko| Posted June 29, 2013 Report Share Posted June 29, 2013 i said "nothing" to the how muchi want to pay per month.. Hahaha, yeah that's a pretty good response... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
|Bunghole| Posted June 30, 2013 Report Share Posted June 30, 2013 I would, but the wife can't drive stick and there's no teaching her, :lol: I'm looking at the Scion FR-S\Subaru BRZ, Mazda 6 Diesel, and Honda Accord... ETA: And my Ranger was a piece of shit too. My luck with Ford = Not so great The BRZ/Scion FR (same car) is a great little sporting car...if you get the manual tranny... :lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go Skins Posted July 1, 2013 Report Share Posted July 1, 2013 There is a site called truecar.com that you can get what people have paid in recent weeks as well. I am in the same boat (woman ran a red light on Fri. morning, just waiting for the official word that my car (2012 Hyundai Accent GLS) is totaled). I am looking at new regardless, I still feel there is too much risk with used, especially when you get into the 30K+ miles range. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichaelWeston Posted July 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2013 There is a site called truecar.com that you can get what people have paid in recent weeks as well. I am in the same boat (woman ran a red light on Fri. morning, just waiting for the official word that my car (2012 Hyundai Accent GLS) is totaled). I am looking at new regardless, I still feel there is too much risk with used, especially when you get into the 30K+ miles range. Hope you are ok Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vol_Bengal Posted July 1, 2013 Report Share Posted July 1, 2013 Oh, and never give an answer to their question "How much do you want to pay per month?". You answer that question, and they've got you hooked. So much this... give Go's answer of "nothing". Otherwise, they'll jack the interest rate, term, dollars, etc. whatever to magically have you right at the monthly payment you proposed, when you very possibly could have been significantly less. That's business, you leave emotion out of it and haggle dollars and cents. The dealer won't accept a deal that screws him over and you shouldn't either. He'll tell you you're being unreasonable and not leaving him any profit, maybe tell you he's losing money on the deal, all bullshit. If he wasn't making money off you he wouldn't be talking to you. Just stick to your guns and like others have said, don't be afraid to walk away. Bingo. Being in the car business, it sure is funny reading all of your posts. Here, let me give you some advice, right from the mouth of one of the devils that all of you are so worried about. 1st, new car vs used car. If you plan on keeping a car 10 years, like Weston wants, buy a 1 year old manufacturer's certified Used car. Don't get a "Dealer Certified" car, get one backed by the manufacturer. You generally get the same rate when you finance and to be frank, you generally get a better warranty than if you buy new. You can also get a car one to two levels better for the same money. Secondly, Don't buy more payment that you can handle for 60 months. So many people stretch and go 72 months and even 84 months on a car loan to get to payment, don't do it! Now, don't get me wrong, if the rate's the same at 66 months do it, but know what it costs for 60 months, and make that payment every month or a little more. Third, don't just do research on the car you want, do research on the dealer as well. Find out how long their Salesmen have been there. A store where most of the guys have been there 5,6 or even 10 years+ is what you're looking for. That's generally a store that isn't trying to sell you one car, they are trying to sell you 10 cars. They aren't going to beat you up, and their goal will be to establish a long term relationship. Fourth, if you are going to buy a car to keep for 10 years, buy the MANUFACTURER'S EXTENDED WARRANTY. Some of you will disagree with this and that's okay, but I'll tell you why. There is too much Technology in today's cars, and the Technology is expensive. Engines, Transmissions and drive assemblies are pretty much bulletproof, that's why everybody gives you long warranties on them. The Technology that they have used to improve the quality? Not so much. Think of it this way, you wouldn't take your Ipad and stick in in the freezer every night, and then put it in the oven every morning and expect it to last 6,7 or 10 years, but you expect the Ipad in the middle of your dashboard to do that? But ask for a Discount! Generally, there is anywhere from a $600 to $1000 dollar mark up, don't pay all of it. Lastly, do a little shopping. Find a place and a person you really like. If your only concern is price, then you will get only price. But if you want to have questions answered, if you want to be able to go back to find out about all the features on your car, if you want a place that's going to look out for you, it's okay to pay a little more. The mantra is true, you do get what you pay for. There are plenty of places today to do the research, be knowledgeable about price, but don't try to squeeze ever bit of profit out of the deal. I'll be totally frank, if you treat me with respect and show me you're knowledgeable, you'll get a fair deal, but if you come in as a pompous blowhard, I will try my best to fuck you or blow you out. The best customer I have may buy 40 cars in his life, a good salesperson sells 150 to 200 a year. I could go on and on, but if you have a particular question, PM me. You guys are my virtual friends, I'll at least try to steer you in the right direction. Good stuff here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go Skins Posted July 1, 2013 Report Share Posted July 1, 2013 Hope you are ok Thanks, a few bruises but nothing else. This is twice I wish there were red lights cameras in VA, because this woman denied running it. In my searches off and on all weekend, just to see if I could afford it, I looked at getting a navigation system thrown in there. Does the cost of what one would be, end up being the same if you wait a year or two to have the dealer put one in? I have an iPhone, but there are too many times that the iPhone will get too hot and turn off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-GoBengals- Posted July 1, 2013 Report Share Posted July 1, 2013 seriously does anyone else shop for cars via email? my genuine hatred of human beings coupled with my excessive nerdiness makes it great.. you dont have to deal with anything face to face until the deal is already in writing(via email) and you can email with many per day, and every dealership had a guy for JUST web sales, so they are ON IT immediately.. just state in the email you prefer to deal via email due to your job being very demanding, etc.. its cake.. a few still try to call, but i ignore the calls and reply to emails.. you narrow it down FAST. first you find out who has the car you want IN STOCK, then list edmunds invoice cost as your wanting price, make sure to choose which level car like EX, and list ALL options. so you have 100% of the deal, done, in writing, and set.... youll narrow down to 2-3 dealerships almost immediately... and can go from there.. the thing that killed us, when we got there, they pulled up our tax rates, and it was like 4x what we thought it should be, we were unincorporated douglas county, little did we know castle rock has taken over in march, and it went from like 1.9% sales tax to 8.6% and on a $25,000 car... it was thousands difference... i argued it, then i google it and sure enough, castle rock f'd us in the A.. but aside from that it was all straight.. and the internet sales guy hated me... but we got what we wanted for the price we wanted.. $570 over invoice, which was about $1000-1300 under MSRP.... they are the biggest dealer here, so they get better deals in volume so they obviously get it under invoice, so they probably made $1000-1500 easy now that i think about it.. but the CRV was the new redesigned model and was new last year, so they were hot selling, AND many dealerships had to write off dozens due to a hail storm we had here many cars ruined.. hail damage cars were discounted, etc.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CincyInDC Posted July 2, 2013 Report Share Posted July 2, 2013 I find the interface of built-in GPS systems to be pretty awful a lot of the time, namely because you usually get a spin-wheel (to scroll through the alphabet) plus up, down, left, right and "plunge". See if you can get a system with a touch-screen or just get a Garmin. Also consider the fact that gps technology has vastly improved in the past year with the addition of European and Russian satellites. Make sure any system can use the new satellites. When I rent a car I use my Android with Sygic GPS Navigation, which doesn't overheat the phone anymore since a software update. I have an extra "World" license if anyone wants to buy it on the cheap. sygic.com Thanks, a few bruises but nothing else. This is twice I wish there were red lights cameras in VA, because this woman denied running it. In my searches off and on all weekend, just to see if I could afford it, I looked at getting a navigation system thrown in there. Does the cost of what one would be, end up being the same if you wait a year or two to have the dealer put one in? I have an iPhone, but there are too many times that the iPhone will get too hot and turn off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichaelWeston Posted July 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2013 Can you negotiate doc fees down from 250 in Ohio? How about destination fees? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
|kennethmw| Posted July 4, 2013 Report Share Posted July 4, 2013 Can you negotiate doc fees down from 250 in Ohio? How about destination fees? Nope. Doc fee is a regulated fee in Ohio. Destination fee is from the manufacturer and isn't marked up. The discount you get is moving that number. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichaelWeston Posted July 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2013 Nope. Doc fee is a regulated fee in Ohio. Destination fee is from the manufacturer and isn't marked up. The discount you get is moving that number. I thought it was regulated at its upper limit as in you can't go higher but can go down to $100? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
|kennethmw| Posted July 4, 2013 Report Share Posted July 4, 2013 I thought it was regulated at its upper limit as in you can't go higher but can go down to $100? By legislation, you are supposed to charge the same amount to everyone or it's discriminatory. It used to be $100 but went up to $250 about 4 years ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumble In the Jungle Posted July 4, 2013 Report Share Posted July 4, 2013 Best deals on clean used cars found at Big Paul's. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CamkEyXdpkA MULLY Bahahahahahahahahahahh Bahahahahahahahahahahahah Bahahahahahahahahahahahhaha This is so Merica like lmao :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumble In the Jungle Posted July 4, 2013 Report Share Posted July 4, 2013 Honour LMAO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichaelWeston Posted July 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2013 Damn check engine light just came on. Don't imagine I will get much for it but that's has to limit things. 15 years old and 160k miles. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
|Bunghole| Posted July 6, 2013 Report Share Posted July 6, 2013 Damn check engine light just came on. Don't imagine I will get much for it but that's has to limit things. 15 years old and 160k miles. Thoughts? If you're worried about it affecting your trade in value, take it to Autozone and they will read your error codes for free. A check engine light can come on for any manner of things, some trivial, some not. If it's something really minor you may be able to get it fixed or at least get the light to go off so you don't have to worry about it affecting your trade value. And if it is a really minor issue, even if you don't get it fixed, it isn't really going to affect the value of your trade in anyway. It's a 15 year old car. You aren't going to get jack for it no matter what, unless it was in pristine condition and had say, less than 20k miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichaelWeston Posted July 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2013 Thanks. I might try that tomorrowHow much is not jack for it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sois Posted July 6, 2013 Report Share Posted July 6, 2013 By legislation, you are supposed to charge the same amount to everyone or it's discriminatory. It used to be $100 but went up to $250 about 4 years ago. STupid obama Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
|Bunghole| Posted July 6, 2013 Report Share Posted July 6, 2013 Thanks. I might try that tomorrow How much is not jack for it? A 15 year old vehicle with over 150k miles? I'm guessing $1000 trade in value at most. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichaelWeston Posted July 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2013 That's what I am hoping forKbb says 1500 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
|Bunghole| Posted July 6, 2013 Report Share Posted July 6, 2013 That's what I am hoping for Kbb says 1500 It always depends. Selling it outright is always worth more, trade in value is always less. There are many variables. Condition of the vehicle, options, flaws, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BengalsOwn Posted July 6, 2013 Report Share Posted July 6, 2013 So what's wrong with the car you are replacing (besides the CEL you just posted about)? My 99 accord has 245k miles, and until a major mechanical failure occurs, I'm going to drive it into the ground. Car payments suck ass. We own three cars, my Accord, a 2012 Dodge Journey, and I had a 2001 Trooper fall into my lap for $400, but I had to spend $3k+ to buy a new shortblock and all new components (labor was free). Now that I just bought a more expensive house, I'm going to be putting the Journey on the market to get rid of the payment... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-GoBengals- Posted July 6, 2013 Report Share Posted July 6, 2013 So what's wrong with the car you are replacing (besides the CEL you just posted about)? My 99 accord has 245k miles, and until a major mechanical failure occurs, I'm going to drive it into the ground. Car payments suck ass. We own three cars, my Accord, a 2012 Dodge Journey, and I had a 2001 Trooper fall into my lap for $400, but I had to spend $3k+ to buy a new shortblock and all new components (labor was free). Now that I just bought a more expensive house, I'm going to be putting the Journey on the market to get rid of the payment... car payments are the WORST.... my 2004 accord now has 130k on it, it was my moms until 4 years ago, and she put 56k on it in 5.5 years, i put 75k on it in 3.5... but its easily got 100k+ left on it... but id love to get myself a new car, to be smart ill probably wait a year after we pay off my wifes car, save that $5k that was her payment, sell my car for $4-5k, and finance a much smaller car payment that can be paid off early for me... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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